Seam for sewed articles.



W. ARBETTER. SEAMFOR SEWED ARTICLES.

APPLICATION FILED P3128, 1908.

937,275, Patented Oct. 19, 1909.

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UNITED STATES PATENT onrron.

WOLF ARBETTER, OF OI-IEL SEA, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR T ARBETTER FEE-LING MACHINE COMPANY, OF BOSTON,MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORATION OF MAINE.

SEAM FOR SEWED ARTICLES.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Application filed February 28, 1908. Serial No. 418,182.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, VVoLF ARBETTER, a cltizen of the United States, and a resident of Chelsea, in the county of Suffolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in Seams for Sewed Articles, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawing, is a specification, like letters on the drawing representing like parts.

This invention relates to a seam for sewed articles designed to be made by a sewing machine, and particularly adapted for use in What is known as felling work where the edge, either raw or folded," of a super imposed layer or layers of fabric is attached to a base layer by blind stitches or stitches entering and emerging from the same face of the fabric.

It is the object of the present invention to provide such a seam which can be readily made by machine and which will simulate, so far as possible, the appearance of a felling seam produced by hand and which at the same time will be strong and durable.

The nature of the seam will appear more fully from the accompanying description and drawings and will be more particularly pointed out in the claims.

The drawings illustrate the. preferred form of the seam as applied to felling work.

Figure 1 is a view in perspective of the scam, the threads and fabric being greatly exaggerated and the loops being displaced slightly for the sake of clearness of illustration. Fig. 2 is a View in perspective, slightly enlarged, of the seam to indicate the general appearance that the finished seam will present.

The seam herein illustrated is designed to be made by a machine such as illustrated in the application of Wolf Arbetter Serial No. 418,181, filed February 28, 1008, but it may be made by any instrumentality or set of instrumentalities that will position the threads with respect to the layers of fabric, as herein explained and described.

As the seam of this invention is an article of manufacture the machine by which it is produced need not here be described, but a machine suitable for this purpose is described in detail in the application above referred to.

In the drawings, A represents the base layer of material, such for example as the fabric of a coat or dress, and B represents the superimposed layer or layers which may be considered as presenting either a raw or folded edge as in the case of a lining.

In making the seam two threads are an ployed, a needle thread and a looper thread. In the drawings the needle thread is illustrated as being inserted by means of a curved eye-pointed needle, but any suitable instrumentality may be used to insert the loops of needle thread. The looper thread may be inserted by means of the familiar type of rotary hook and inclosed bobbin and bobbin case, but any suitable instrumentality may be used for manipulating this thread.

Referring to the construction shown in Fig. 1 of the drawings, the curved needle C enters the base layer A at D, and emerges at E, thus entering and emerging from the up per surface of the said layer, and making a blind stitch which preferably does not show on the under surface. In Fig. 1 the points D and E and the loop of thread F thus formed are shown at some distance from the edge of the layer B for purposes of illustration, but in practice they will lie close up to the edge and upon the completion of the seam will be practically concealed beneath said edge. Upon the completion of the loop F the looper or hook thread '0 is passed through the loop F,-the needle then retracts and is turned into a direction diagonal to the edge of the layer B, and operated to enter beneath the upper surface of the said layer and preferably beneath the layer itself, and emerge from the upper surface of the layer B at the point G which point is preferably in line with the point E in the direction of the seam. As the needle retracts and throws out its loop the looper or hook thread 0 is passed through this diagonally-arranged loop H of the needle thread and the needle is then retracted, the tension being so arranged that the loop H will draw down into the layer B the interlocked loop of the thread 0. Upon the completion of the retraction of the needle from making the diagonal loop H the needle is again swung into a position parallel to that which 1t occupied in making the loop F, and asses again into the base layer A in precise y the same manner and in substantially the same place as before, forming thereby the loop J, which is interlocked by the looper thread 0 as in the case of the loop F. The needle Patented Oct. 19, 1909.

then retracts and the feed takes place to the point K, where the cycle of operations already described is repeated resulting in a corresponding arrangement of thread and loops to .that already described, and so on throughout the length of the seam.

When the threads are drawn up into position by tension it will be seen that the loops lying in the base fabric A will be drawn beneath and practically concealed by the edge of the layer B, so that, as indicated in Fig.

2, the only visible portion of the threads will be the double strands of the thread 0 lying up over the edge of the superimposed layer and for a short distance over its upper surface, and these strands of thread will lie parallel to each other and spaced apart substantially as indicated in Fig. 2, thus presenting an appearance similar to that of hand ling. In the preferred form of the seam the loops H enter under the edge of the superimposed layer B and do not catch in or penetrate the base layer A.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is:

l. A seam for sewed articles comprising, a base layer, a superimposed layer presenting an edge thereon, a thread formed into three rows of 100 s, the loops of one row extending diagona ly beneath the upper surface of the superimposed layer, the corresponding loops of the other two rows lying in the base layer parallel and close together and parallel and close to the edge of the superimpose layer, a second thread passing through and looking all of said loops.

2. A seam for sewed articles comprising, a base layer, a superimposed layer presenting i an edge thereon, a thread extending in double strands up the edge and for a short distance over the upper surface of the superlmposed layer, a second thread formed into loops some of which lie diagonally beneath the upper surface of said layer and interlockin with the first thread, and others of which die in the base layer parallel and close to the edge of the superimposed layer and interlocking with said first thread.

3. A seam for sewed articles comprising, a base layer, a superimposed layer presenting an edge thereon, a thread extending in double strands upthe edge and for a short distance over the upper surface of the su crimposed layer, a second thread forme into loops lying in groups of three, one loop of each group lying dia onally beneath the upper surface of said '%ayer and interlocking with the first thread, the other two loops of each group lying in the base layer parallel and close to the edge of the su erimposcd layer and interlocking with said rst thread.

4. A seam for sewed articles comprising, a base layer, a superimposed layer presenting an edge thereon, a thread formed into loops, the first loop entering and emerging from the upper surface of the base layer close to and parallel with the edge of the superimposed layer, the second loop entering beneath the superimposed layer in a direction (liagonal to the edge thereof,'the third loop entering and emerging from the u persurface of the base layer close to an parallel with the edge of the superimposed layer, and adjacent to the first loop, a secondthread passing through and interlocking the-three loops of the first thread and lying in a double strand up over the edge and" a short distance along the upper surface of the superimposed layer. i v

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

WOLF ARBETTER;

Witnesses r MABEL PARTELOW THOMAS J. DRUMMOND. 

